Informational

3 Light Bulb Mistakes Everyone Makes And How To Avoid Them

by admin · Mar 22, 2023

Using the wrong light bulb can really make your space feel all wrong. If your room feels dark and dingy or, the opposite, harsh and cold, your light bulb may be the culprit.

Before you buy another bulb, make sure you’re not making one of these common mistakes in your home!

Light Bulb Mistake #1
Using the Wrong Wattage

Watts refer to the amount of energy a light bulb uses. The lower the wattage, the less electricity a bulb needs to stay lit. Energy-efficient light bulbs can give off the same amount of light using fewer watts, which saves you money on your power bill!

Every light fixture has its own wattage requirements, so you’ll need to do a little sleuthing to find out what your fixture requires.

There should be a sticker or label with the wattage limit clearly printed on it, although you might need to unscrew one of your existing light bulbs and look near the threads to find it. If you can’t find the wattage limit on your fixture, give us a call and we can help you out!

Most light fixtures have an individual bulb wattage limit (typically 45W or 60W), but there are some that have an overall limit for the entire fixture instead. For these you’ll need to add the watts together for each bulb to make sure you’re under the safety limit.

It’s okay to use bulbs with lower watts than what your fixture calls for to save on your energy bill, but never go higher. Exceeding the wattage limit on a fixture could start a fire!

Light Bulb Mistake #2
Ignoring the Lumen Rating

A light bulb’s lumen rating will tell you how bright it is. The higher the lumen rating, the brighter it will appear. When it comes to lighting your home, different rooms need different levels of light. Work spaces need lots of light, so choosing bulbs with a high lumen rating is a great way to brighten your kitchen if it’s feeling dim. Other spaces like bedrooms and hallways don’t need to be as bright, so it’s okay to opt for bulbs with a lower lumen rating.

There isn’t an exact formula that will tell you how lumens you need in a room, because it depends on your use and design of the space. You’ll need more lumens in work spaces like kitchens and offices, and less in bedrooms. If your design aesthetic is bright and airy or dark and moody, you’ll need to take that into account when planning your lighting.

A good rule of thumb to get you started is 20 lumens per square foot for floors, 30 lumens per square foot for tables, and 50 lumens per square foot for desks, countertops, and task lighting.

How does this work when you have more than one light bulb in the room? Do lumens cancel each other out or add up? The short answer is: lumens are cumulative. In a room full of furniture, light bounces around enough that the lumens don’t directly add up, and the more bulbs you use the less precise it gets.

When you’re figuring out what you need in your home, it is 100% okay to add the lumens for each bulb in your room together to get a rough idea of what your space will need. You’ll probably end up adjusting it here and there as seasons change, when you repaint your walls, or if your use of the room changes. If your room has a lot of uses- consider getting bulbs that are dimmable so that you can change the light levels depending on what you’re doing!

Light Bulb Mistake #3
Buying the Wrong Color

If you didn’t know that light bulbs came in different color hues, now’s the time to learn! Light bulbs come in a wide range of light “temperatures”, measured in Kelvins (K). The temperature of the light you use in your room will dramatically change the way the room feels.

Warm (2,000K – 3500K)

Wam light bulbs give a room a soft, cozy, and intimate feel with an orange or yellow hue. Outside, you see this type of light during sunrises and sunsets. Inside, it’s often associated with vintage light bulbs, like Edison bulbs, or incandescent light bulbs. It’s great for places like the living room, bedroom, and dining room.

Cool/Natural (3500K – 5000K)

Cool or “Natural” light bulbs give off a truer white color that gives a room a clean, crisp, and inviting feel. This light is more like the light you’d see in the mornings and afternoons outdoors. It’s great for bathrooms, closets, and offices.

Daylight light bulbs (5000K – 6200K)

Daylight light bulbs give off a light that’s close to what you’d see at noon outside on a sunny day. Daylight light makes a room feel even more clean and crisp than natural light, but it can come off a little harsh if you’re not careful. It’s a great choice for lighting work spaces like kitchens and garages, and for task lighting, like a reading lamp.

Blue (6200K+)

After 6200K light starts to look blue, so that bulbs in this color aren’t typically used in homes. There are some exceptions: some artists prefer to work under this light, and people with Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) may find blue light beneficial in the winter months.

Bonus Mistake #4:
Just Living With It

If the lighting just doesn’t feel right in your room, you don’t have to live with it! Too dark and depressing? Add lumens! If your clean room still feels dingy, it could be that you need cooler bulbs… or if your room feels stark and cold, you can warm up your bulbs to make it feel more inviting. And always double-check your wattage before you buy! With the right wattage, lumens, and temperature, you’ll be surprised at how much better your lighting can work for you.

We know what a big deal it is to make your house feel exactly the way you want it to. Don’t let your lighting hold you back! If you have any questions about how to find the right light bulbs for your space, give our experts a call and we’ll help you find exactly what you need!

How to Choose the Right Recessed Lights for Your Home : An In-Depth Homeowners Guide

by admin · Mar 1, 2023

Recessed lights go by many names, such as downlights, pot lights, can lights, and puck lights. No matter the name, they all refer to light fixtures that are installed inside (recessed into) your ceiling. They shine light into the room without hanging down into the space like a chandelier or a flush mount fixture.

There’s a lot to know about recessed lights before you install them in your home, but it can be hard to find all of the information you need in one place. So we’ve put together this handy guide with everything you need to know in one place to help you decide which recessed light is right for you!

Recessed Lights 101

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details, here’s a quick overview of some of the most important terms you need to know when shopping for recessed lighting.

Recessed Lighting Terms

There are three parts to a recessed light: the housing, the bulb, and the trim. The housing holds all of the wires and connectors inside a protective case that sits inside your ceiling, out of sight. The bulb is the part that gives off light. The trim is the visible portion of a recessed light that covers the housing and the hole in the ceiling, giving it a finished look.

You’ll also need to pay attention to how widely the trim allows the light to shine – this is called the Beam Angle. Recessed light beam angles can range from a narrow 15-degree spotlight to a 120-degree floodlight. Generally speaking, anything from 60 to 120 degrees will work well for general lighting in your home.

Types of Recessed Lights

Traditional – These are the original recessed lights. They’ve been around the longest, but they have their pros and cons. They’re cheaper to purchase but more expensive to operate than LED options. They also produce heat, so you’ll need to be conscious of location.

LED – These newer recessed lights may cost more upfront, but they use considerably less power to run, which makes them cheaper to use. LED bulbs last for a very long time, so you won’t have to pay to replace them every year. They also produce minimal heat, making them a safer alternative to traditional lights.

Ultra-Thin / Canless – These are a small subsection of LED recessed lights that have been designed specifically for use in remodels. The housing in these recessed lights is about as thick as drywall, so they’re much easier to install in an existing ceiling.

Ease of Install

If you’re replacing an old recessed light with a new one, installation is a pretty basic homeowner DIY. If you’re trying to add recessed lights where they weren’t before, that’s usually a much larger project.

Recessed lights typically have a large housing, which means they need to be installed between the framing lumber in your ceiling. In new builds, this isn’t a problem because the spacing of your lights can be planned out during construction. If you’re installing recessed lights after the fact, creating an evenly spaced grid of lights can be a little bit more difficult. You’ll likely need to hire an electrician or contractor to help run the wiring correctly.

Canless lights are often the best choice for renovations because they can be installed almost anywhere in the ceiling. While easier to install, it’s still a pretty significant electrical project. If you’re comfortable with that type of DIY work you can give it a try, but most homeowners usually hire a professional.

Sizing

Homeowners are often surprised at the size of their recessed lights after they’ve been installed. It’s important to know that the measurement on the packaging of a recessed light refers to the size of the light’s housing, not to the size of the trim.

The measurement on the packaging tells you how large the hole will need to be in your ceiling so that you can plan out your spacing. You’ll also need to take into account the size of the trim.

Remember, the trim on a recessed light is there to cover the edges of the light and the hole, so it sits below the drywall and extends out from the fixture. Because trim styles vary, a 4” recessed light could appear 5, 6, or even 7 inches wide once installed.

Make sure you double-check that you measured the right part before you cut, or you could end up with a lot of drywall patching!

How to Choose the Right Size

Recessed lights come in a lot of different sizes, but the 6” size has been an unofficial industry standard for a long time. Now, with LED technology, manufacturers are finding ways to create the same amount of light in smaller packaging. Their smaller 4” counterparts pack a pretty big punch for their size, and they just might end up being a better fit for your space.

Light Coverage

If you’re lighting an entire room with recessed lights, both 4” and 6” sizes will do the job well. They are pretty interchangeable as a general lighting option, but there are a few things to consider.

Ceiling Height: You’ll need to consider the height of your ceilings. Both 4” and 6” work well at standard ceiling height. For vaulted ceilings, you might want to consider sticking with larger lights with wide beam angles – the taller the ceiling, the more evenly diffused the light will be across your space.

Existing Fixtures: If you’re adding recessed lights to work together with an existing light fixture like a chandelier or a ceiling fan, take stock of the way the existing fixture lights the space at different times throughout the day and at night. 6” recessed lights can help raise overall ambient light if the room is too dim. 4” lights are often a better choice if you need lighting around the dark edges of a room.

How You Use the Room: The rooms in your home don’t need an equal amount of light in every square inch. Your rooms will feel better if the lighting is tailored to the way you use them.

For example, this kitchen has beautiful pendant lights, but on their own they’d cast shadows onto the kitchen worksurfaces. This homeowner installed a row of recessed lights around the perimeter of the kitchen to provide better light on the countertop prep surfaces. In the dining area, a softer chandelier on a separate switch lights the table, which gives it a more comfortable, relaxing feel for when it’s time to eat.

Cost

4” lights are going to cost you less upfront simply because they’re smaller and cost less to make – although prices are going to vary based on materials, finishes, and special features. They also cost less to run because they use less power.

6” lights may cost more, but (depending on the specific fixture) you may be able to use fewer 6” lights to achieve the same coverage as a larger number of 4” lights.

If you’re on a tight budget, you’ll want to map out your room with both sizes and then run the numbers both ways to make sure you’re getting the best deal.

Decor

For years now, homeowners have been ditching ceiling lights in favor of a grid of recessed lights. But, the lack of visual interest is starting to sway designers back towards beautiful statement ceiling light fixtures like chandeliers and pendants.

In rooms where modern statement fixtures are providing most of the ambient light for space, larger recessed lights aren’t really necessary. 4” lights are a much better option for creating beautiful layers of light without over-lighting your space. You’ll find this size most often in rooms with a modern design.

You’ll find 6” lights most often in large open rooms that need a lot of light, and in rooms with more traditional decor.

Because 6” lights are more common, they currently have more trim styles available. If you have a specific style of trim in mind, make sure you find out if it’s available in the size you want before you buy!

Location/Uses

4” recessed lights are most commonly used in smaller spaces like hallways, home offices, and over the kitchen sink. They’re perfect for lighting a reading or craft area where you want to see what you’re doing. They’re also a great size for highlighting artwork or architectural features without washing them out.

6” lights do their best work lighting a large room like a living room or dining room. They’re also a great choice for rooms with high ceilings, as their larger size will help to spread the light more uniformly throughout the space.

Properly placed recessed lights can make your rooms feel bigger if you employ a technique called Wall Washing. Wrapping your room in 4” recessed lights will evenly coat the wall with light, making the entire space feel more spacious. This is a great trick for smaller spaces like hallways and narrow rooms, and it helps to hide imperfections in the wall finish.

Placement is important here – if your recessed lights are installed too close to the wall, they’ll create a cone of light (called wall grazing) which will not have the same space-creating effect. The goal is to get soft, even coverage across the wall without any harsh lines.

Overview

To sum it all up, here’s a handy comparison between 4” and 6” recessed lights.

Other Things to Consider

The size you choose matters, but there are other things you need to consider before purchasing! LED recessed lighting has come a long way in the past few years, and new features are regularly being added to the lineup.

Color

LED lights come in a wide variety of colors, measured in Kelvins (K).

Warm light (up to 3000K) appears orange or yellow, like the light from traditional incandescent bulbs. It feels soft and cozy, and is a great choice for places where you want to wind down and relax, like a bedroom or a living room.

Daylight light (between 3000K – 4000K) is similar to the light at midday. It feels bright and white, and is a great choice for most rooms in the house.

Cool light (above 4000K) starts to appear blue as the Kelvins increase. Blue light feels crisp and energetic and is often used in offices and hospitals to help keep people alert. Be careful with blue light in your home – it can keep you up at night!

The color you choose for your lights will change how the paint on your walls looks, so it’s a good idea to experiment with it first before you commit.

Color Changing lights – Some LED lights are color-changing, meaning they can be set to emit warm or cool light, which takes the stress out of worrying which temperature to choose. Some lights can be changed with a switch in the housing, which is great for homeowners that want to choose what they like, set it, and forget about it. Others can be changed with a remote control or a smart hub, making the lighting in your house truly customizable to any activity.

Dimmable

We recommend installing LED lights on a dimmer switch whenever possible! Because they are so bright, it’s nice to be able to dim the lights to a level that you’re comfortable with throughout the day. Most LED lights are already dimmable, but some aren’t, so you’ll need to double-check before purchasing if this is a feature you want in your home!

Smart Technology

Smart LED recessed lights come with the ability to communicate with other technologies in your home, like a smart hub. Depending on the features, this means you could set your lights on a schedule or even turn them on with a voice command instead of a switch.

There are a lot of things to consider when you’re installing recessed lights. Our lighting experts know all of the ins and outs and would love to share their knowledge with you to help get you started. Give us a call or stop by our showroom and see for yourself how recessed lighting can completely transform your home.

How to Safely Install a Ceiling Fan

by admin · Feb 22, 2023

Installing a new ceiling fan is a cheap way to save on energy costs all year without compromising on comfort. In the summer, ceiling fans cool down the house by creating a breeze. In the winter, they help circulate the heated air to warm the whole room evenly.

Putting in a ceiling fan is a win-win for your comfort levels and your budget – and it’s a pretty simple DIY project for homeowners. Plan on giving yourself a few hours (depending on the type of fan and your experience level with lighting DIYs), and grab a friend that can help you hold things in place while you work.

If you’re buying a ceiling fan new, it should come with thorough installation instructions. We always recommend following those instructions exactly to be sure that your fan is installed safely and properly. If you’re installing a secondhand fan, you may be able to find the installation guide online by searching with the model number on the fan. Either way, we’ll walk you through the basic steps here so that you can prepare.

1. Preparation

Before you break out your tool belt, make sure you have a good plan in place. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and realizing you don’t have everything you need to complete the task.

Tool Checklist

Before you take on a ceiling fan installation project, make sure you have all the tools you need so you don’t have to rush off to your local hardware store for a last-minute purchase. To install a ceiling fan you’ll need to have a:

Voltage Tester
Ladder
Measuring Tape
Screwdriver
Ceiling Fan-Rated Junction Box
Fan Brace
Wire-Cutter/Stripper
Light Bulbs
Globes/Shades if they aren’t included
An extra-long downrod if you’re installing on a sloped ceiling
Ceiling Fan and Kit

Choosing the Right Fan Size

Measure the room you’re working in before you start. Not all fans are created equal, so pick one that will fit. Use the following guidelines to help.

For rooms smaller than 75 square feet (like bathrooms), pick a fan with blade spans of less than 36 inches.
Blade spans between 36 and 42 inches are ideal for rooms up to 144 square feet.
A 44-inch span is perfect for rooms up to 225 square feet, like a dining room.
For rooms that are 225 square feet or larger (a large living room, for example), you’ll need a fan with a 50 to 54-inch blade span.
The more space between the ceiling and the fan, the better! The ideal ceiling fan height is 8-9 feet above the ground.
If your ceiling is less than 8 feet, you’ll most likely need to install a flush-mount fan (no downrod).
High pitched ceilings typically require you to buy an extra-long downrod (so that the blades won’t hit the sloped ceiling), so check your ceiling height and angle before choosing your downrod.

Pro Tip: Once your fan is installed, the tips of the blades should be at least 30 inches from the walls, and the bottom edges of the blades should be at least 7 feet above the floor.

Other Important Tips

Ceiling fans are heavy! They need to be anchored properly to an electric ceiling box designed to hold the weight of the fan. Inspect the electrical box to ensure it’s fan-rated. There should be an inscription on the box to indicate this. If it’s not, you’ll also need to purchase a fan box before you get started.
Check to make sure the light switch you’re using is wired appropriately for the fan. If it isn’t, you may need to call a professional to get the job done.
Check the ceiling joists for any wiring or plumbing pipes that may be in the way.
If you’re adding a new fan where one didn’t exist, check local building codes to determine if you need a permit.
Always check your installation guide for any additional requirements that are specific to your fan. For some expert help choosing the perfect fan for your space, give us a visit or a call and we’d be happy to help.

2. Safety

Now that you’re ready to begin, head out to your circuit breaker and turn the power off for the room where you’ll be installing your fan. Also, make sure all of the wall switches in the room are safely in the “off” position. Do not rely on a wall switch alone to protect you from electrical shock! Always use a voltage tester to be sure the power is off before handling wires.

Pro Tip: Place some electrical tape over the switches you’ve turned off on the circuit breaker. This will prevent anyone from switching it back on while you’re working.

3. Remove Your Old Fixture

Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to take down the existing fixture. Most fixtures have easy-to-find attachment points, like screws or twist-off caps. Remove accessories like light bulbs, shades to get down to the base of your fixture, then unscrew the base from the ceiling.

If you’re removing an existing ceiling fan, remove the light bulbs and globes first. Then, take down the light kit (if needed – some fans have them, some don’t). Unscrew and remove the fan blades next. At this point, you may need to enlist a helper as the full weight of the fan base and motor can be heavy. Pull off the canopy (metal cover at the base of the fan). The last step is to remove the mounting bracket with a screwdriver!

Once you have the base of your fixture dropped away from the ceiling, unscrew the wire nuts connecting it to the electrical box. Be sure to test the wires with your voltage tester first!

4. Install a Fan Box

Before you start, check your existing electrical box. If it isn’t rated to support the weight of your fan, you’ll need to install a new one. To see if your existing box is rated to hold a fan, just take a look at the label! If you can’t find a label, err on the side of caution and get a new one.

You’ll have to do a little bit of homework here to figure out what will work best for your project. Fan boxes are easiest to install if you have open access, like in the attic or an unfinished ceiling. If you won’t have easy access you may need to widen your drywall hole a little, but you can usually find a brace that will slip through the existing hole.

Take a look at your rafters to determine the best way to install your fan box. Fan boxes can be attached directly to the rafter with a side bracket. If your new fan won’t be right next to a rafter, look for a brace that will span the space between two rafters. These braces can be a little trickier to install through a small hole in the ceiling, but they’ll give you a lot more breathing room when it comes to getting your fan box in the right place.

5. Install the Mounting Bracket

To secure the mounting bracket to the fan box, start by threading the wires through the mounting bracket. If the fan has a slide-on bracket, leave the bolts on the junction box, slide the bracket over the mounting hardware, and tighten the screws. For fans without a slide-on bracket, place the bracket over the mounting bolts that poke through the bracket. Then, secure it using the provided nuts. If your fan is a flush mount, pull the wiring through the canopy (the part that covers the wiring/mount bracket) and skip to step 7.

6. Install the Downrod

To set the downrod, you’ll want to find a flat work surface. Slip the canopy onto the downrod and pull the primary wires through the hollow downrod. Then, connect the downrod to the fan base. With the downrod and base assembled, attach the other end of the downrod to the mounting bracket.

7. Wire the Fan

Next, it’s time to wire! Hang the downrod – or canopy, if you’re installing a flush mount fan – on the hook on the mounting bracket. If there isn’t a good place to hang it, phone a friend to hold the fan up for you to free up your hands while you connect the wires.

Before you start, check to make sure all your wiring (and the wire nuts) will fit in the ceiling. Use your wire cutters to trim down any wires that won’t. This will also keep them from vibrating against the canopy when the fan is on. Use wire strippers to expose the copper of the wires on the new ends.

Connect the corresponding wires using the provided wire nuts. Your installation guide will have a diagram to follow, but, generally speaking, the fan’s green wire connects to the ground wire, the fan’s black motor wire connects to the black supply wire, and the fan’s white wire connects to the white (or neutral) supply wire.

Double-check your work against the diagram, then gently push the wires into the junction box. Lift the fan into position, then clip it to the mounting bracket and secure the screws.

Pro Tip: Some fans come with additional wires for extra features, like having a separate switch for the light and fan. If your switches or wires don’t match the diagram, you might need to check in with an electrician or a lighting specialist at our showroom to help you get things set up correctly.

8. Blades and Bulbs

Now it’s time to install the fan blades. Every fan is a little bit different – but most fans will have an arm or bracket that you’ll need to attach to the blade and then to the base using a screwdriver. Some fans have quick-install blades that speed up the process using keyhole slots that slip over the fan’s mounting screws and lock into place with a little tug.

Some fans have reversible blades – so make sure you’re checking each time that you have the correct side pointed down!

By now, you should be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel – so let’s install the bulbs! For fans with a light kit, refer to your guide to ensure everything goes in place correctly. Generally, you’ll just need to install the shades, globes, or light cover. If your fan did not come with bulbs, make sure the bulbs you install have the correct base type and wattage

If your fan came with a remote, don’t forget to install the remote control holder!

9. Lights… Fan… Action!

Last, but not least, it’s time to test out your new ceiling fan! Go back to your circuit breaker and turn the power back on. Try switching your fan and lights on and off using the light switch or remote control. Test all of the speed settings to make sure your fan is secured properly and doesn’t wobble or rattle.

Most of the time, installing a ceiling fan is a pretty straightforward DIY project. Occasionally, an odd issue can crop up due to things like old wiring. If you run into any trouble, be sure to give us a call right away, or call an electrician that can help you troubleshoot the issue.

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Congratulations DIY master! Now that you’ve successfully installed your new ceiling fan, get ready for a fresh breeze to blow your way–and some savings too. With all that extra cash blowing around, come visit us and we’ll help get you started on your next project.

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DISCLAIMER: Be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s installation instructions and take all recommended safety precautions. Check before installing to see if you need a permit and be sure all building and electrical codes are observed. If you have any questions or are unsure about installing the fan yourself, contact a licensed electrician or Vogue Lighting for more help.

How Many Light Bulbs Do You Need? Understanding Lumens

by admin · Jan 23, 2023

Are you updating your light bulbs, but not sure how bright you need them? Or how many bulbs your room needs?

You’re not alone in the confusion. It can be difficult reading the package in the hardware store and understanding what the bulb will do for your home.

This post will briefly touch on how lumens work and then guide you on how to make sure you have the right light for each room in your house.

What Are Lumens?

With major innovations in lighting over the past twenty years, bulbs have become much more efficient. That’s great news for your electric bill and the environment! But a side effect is that watts are no longer a good measurement for brightness.

Watts measure the amount of energy used by the bulb. When all bulbs were incandescent, this also indicated brightness– the higher the watts, the more energy used, the brighter the bulb.

But with more efficient bulbs, like halogens and LEDs, much less power is used while still producing bright light. So a 40 watt incandescent light gives off the same light as an 8 watt LED!

So how will shoppers know that an 8 watt LED will replace their 40 watt incandescent? Instead of measuring power use, lumens measure brightness. Now no matter the energy efficiency, you can compare bulbs apples to apples.

How Many Lumens Do I Need?

So how many lumens do you need for your space? To calculate the right lumen range, you need to know the square feet of the space and the proper foot candles for the area.

The square footage of your room will help you know how much light you need– the bigger the space, the more light you need. To find out your square footage, simply measure the length and width of the room, then multiply those two numbers.

For example, if your room is 10 feet by 12 feet, your room is 120 square feet (10×12=120).

“Foot candle” is a less familiar term, but it means the brightness of a light source from one foot away. The target foot candle range will depend on the activity of the room. For workspaces like kitchens and offices you’ll want more light (more foot candles), and for bedrooms and dining rooms you’ll want less light (fewer foot candles).

Once you have the square feet of your room and the target foot candles, then you can determine how many lumens you need. Simply multiply your square feet by the desired foot candles!

Let’s say that your bedroom is 120 square feet. Multiply 120 by 10 for the low end and by 20 for the high end of the target zone.

120 x 10 = 1200

120 X 20 = 2400

Now you know that you need between 1200 and 2400 lumens for your bedroom!

Simple Cheat Sheet

If you don’t want to worry about foot candles, here’s a chart with a general estimate of how many lumens you need per square foot per area of your home. Remember, these calculations help determine the total light a room needs. But you’ll often concentrate light above tables, countertops, or a desk.

So if your living room is 15 feet by 20 feet, your total square footage is 300 (15 x 20 = 300). Then multiply that by the recommended 10 lumens to get a minimum of 3,000 lumens for your living room (300 x 10= 3,000).

How Many Bulbs Do I Need?

It may seem overwhelming to need a few thousand lumens for your room. Don’t worry– you will still use relatively few bulbs to get all the light you need. For reference, an 8 w LED bulb will give off about 450 lumens of light.

With just a few bulbs, you’ll have all your lighting covered. Put three in the ceiling fan, add a lamp with one bulb, and you’re done!

Need Help?

Proper lighting is essential to a fully functioning home– but it can be challenging to nail balanced brightness, great fixtures, and a budget! Contact the experts at Vogue Lighting for advice on your projec

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

by admin · Jan 17, 2023

Ceiling fans are great at providing comfort year-round. A good ceiling fan will help you save on energy costs by circulating the air in your home. In the summer they create a draft, making the room feel cooler. In cold weather, you can switch the fan’s direction to circulate warm air from central heating around the room.

Ceiling fans are so ubiquitous that for many people it’s hard to imagine life without one! So what happens when your fan breaks, and it’s time to get a new one?

If you’ve shopped for ceiling fans recently, you know that there are a lot of options. From the ultra-modern models with a single fan blade, to the “windmill” design fans with so many blades that there’s hardly any space between them – many homeowners on the hunt start to ask:

How many blades does my ceiling fan really need?

Does the blade count actually change anything, or is it just for aesthetics?

In short, the answer is “yes to both.” The blade count on a ceiling fan is largely viewed as a style issue, but it does impact the way the fan works. Apart from the obvious design differences, the number of blades on a fan will also affect its noise level and energy consumption.

Noise Level

The fewer the blades, the faster a fan needs to spin to move the same amount of air. Lots of spinning means lots of moving parts, which usually translates to more noise. Take large industrial fans, for example – they typically have two or three blades and are pretty loud.

On the other end of the spectrum, fans with higher blade counts can move a lot of air spinning at a slower rate. Less motion means less noise – windmill-style fans with eight to ten blades are virtually silent.

There isn’t an exact cutoff between noisy versus quiet fans, but a good middle range is around five. If you want a quieter fan, one with five or more blades will likely be your best choice.

Energy Efficiency

Another thing to consider when choosing a fan is how much it will cost to run. Fans with more blades create more drag, requiring more energy to operate. This is one reason why large, always-on fans (like you’d see in a commercial space) often only have three blades. They may be a bit noisier, but they save on energy costs.

While its blade count does impact the energy efficiency of a fan, it’s definitely not the only factor involved. The efficiency of fans can also be affected by the length and angle of the blades and by the type of motor it uses. It’s best to check the energy rating of your fan when possible.

Style and Aesthetics

Aside from energy efficiency and noise level, the main difference between fans with high and low blade counts is really just style and aesthetics. “Windmill” styles with eight to twelve blades can feel rustic, whereas fans with two to three blades usually feel minimalist and industrial.

How do I know what the right number is for me?

The short answer to this question is – it really doesn’t matter very much for most people. It doesn’t matter whether noise levels, energy efficiency, or aesthetics are your top priority; it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find a fan that will meet your needs in all three categories.

Most often, it’s safe to shop by your style preferences first, then find a fan that meets your noise and efficiency needs from that selection. A modern, high-quality ceiling fan will be designed to work well regardless of the blade count.

If you’re looking for a quality fan that will keep you cool for years to come, stop by our showroom or give us a call. Our lighting experts are ready and waiting to help you find exactly what you need!

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